New EA series plug adapters
A 25-year advance!
Completely re-engineered from the inside out
Just a Few of Our Valued Customers
TEMPGUARD, the ultimate thermal protection against overload
A TEMPGUARD transformer turns itself off automatically before any damage can be done to the transformer from overload and subsequent overheating.
Mobile Locksmiths: Do not void your key cutter warranty!
Manufacturers require the use of a PURE SINE WAVE inverter to power your key cutting machine in your truck or van. Pure sine wave inverters supply power that is identical to native AC power from a wall outlet, at 2 to 5% harmonic distortion, as opposed to 30 to 50% with an ordinary inverter.
Coming Soon: PowerXchanger
Finally a practical solution for converting both voltage AND frequency! PowerXchanger is a full-featured sine wave output regenerator that produces new, clean, and constant AC power at 120VAC 60Hz.
The Good Stuff
EA9C Type C Travel Plug Adapter for Europe (CEE 7/16 Europlug)
EA9C Type C Travel Plug Adapter for Europe (CEE 7/16 Europlug)
3 Reviews
Save: 20% off
Availability : In stock
This plug adapter changes the shape of an appliance's plug so that it can plug into a Type C (European CEE 7/16 Europlug) wall outlet, or a Soviet-era Russian (GOST 7396) wall outlet.
The receptacle side of the adapter can accept any standard household plug type from any country, except the Type M (South African SABS 1661) plug.
The plug side is a Type C CEE 7/16 Europlug, which is loosely compatible with several other types of wall outlets as well. They include Type F (German CEE 7/4 Schuko) and Type E (French CEE 7/5 Schuko) outlets, Type L (Italian CEI 23-16/VII) outlets, Type H (Israeli SI-32) outlets, Type J (Swiss SEV 1011) and Type K (Danish SRAF 1962/DB) outlets, although connections to these outlets will be non-grounded. The adapter's pins are 4.0mm in diameter, 19mm long and spaced 19mm apart. The plug is non-polarized and non-grounded.
Our EA Series plug adapters have recently been completely re-engineered from the inside out. It's the first significant advancement in plug adapter technology in 25 years! The redesigned internal structure makes these plug adapters the only ones on the market that meet IEC 60884-2-5 Amperage Rating / Temperature Rise standards.
Don't know what that means? We'll explain why it's incredibly important. But in the meantime, here's the short answer: It's the reason why our adapters are the only ones the US Military, the US Department of State, the US Department of Homeland Security, and 17 US Foreign Embassies trust enough to use for their mission-critical applications.

Be safe! Don't let this happen to you!
Oh, it happens all the time. Which is why the "Just buy an adapter when you get there, you can find them anywhere for a few bucks." comments you may have seen on travel forums are bad advice. Most adapters sold in foreign countries would be illegal to sell in the United States and Canada. Why? Because they wouldn't pass safety standards.
It's honestly frightening how little thought many people give to something that stands between them and the complete destruction of their expensive devices and appliances. Or worse yet, a fire. Electricity is a deadly serious matter. Give it the respect it deserves. Don't let a few bucks, or just plain indifference, put you in a potentially dangerous situation. Plug adapters are not "all the same." Not by a long shot.
Most plug adapters, even ones sold in the US and Canada, can only handle up to 6 amps of electricity. (As long as they're labeled as such, they're "legal" but that doesn't do you much good if you don't know or care what "amps" means.) The problem is that every household wall outlet in the world is capable of supplying at least 10 amps. In the UK, it's 13 amps. In North America, it's 15 amps. In the EU, it's 16 amps. What that means is that a generic plug adapter can easily be overloaded. An 1800-watt hair dryer draws 15 amps, for example. That's more than twice the amps a generic plug adapter can handle. What happens then? Well, first the adapter melts. Then it catches fire. Quickly. The horror stories are numerous. Don't let it happen to you!
Our EA Series adapters don't have that extremely serious problem, because they're the only adapters on the market that are rated to the full amperage of the wall outlet they're designed to plug into. (Furthermore, they're actually tested at 25% to 40% higher than that, for a full hour.) Bottom line? Our EA Series adapters simply can't be overloaded. You'd trip a breaker (or "blow a fuse" if you're of a certain age) in the building before you could ever approach any kind of overload that would cause our adapters to melt or catch fire. It's the reason why the US Military and State Department will use only our adapters.

Don't be fooled by mass-marketed knockoffs. They're unreliable at best, legitimately dangerous at worst.
Image 1 is a typical plug adapter you'd buy from a street vendor abroad. Shockingly, these are also available in US and Canadian "travel shops" at airports and online. They're bad news. They're usually not labeled to indicate their amperage/wattage ratings, and you're lucky if they support a paltry 3 amps. You might as well try to connect your device or appliance with a couple of paper clips wrapped in rubber bands. (Note: Please don't try that.) The outer shell is made of ABS plastic, which will melt and catch fire within 30 seconds if overloaded.
Image 2 is a slightly better constructed adapter, the kind you might find in an airport travel shop or online. But it still only supports 6 amps, or about half of what the outlet is capable of supplying. Worse yet, see that second receptacle on the top? These adapters are often marketed as "2 in 1" as if that's a feature. It's not a feature, it's a bug. That adapter is just begging to be overloaded. It can barely support the amps being drawn by one device or appliance, let alone two.
Images 3 and 4 are so-called "multi-adapters" or "all in one" adapters. And that seems like a good idea, at least in theory. Unfortunately, as a practical matter, they present a multitude of problems. For one thing, moving parts. Moving parts are bad. There's a reason power cords and their plugs don't have moving parts. Moving parts (or, worse yet, "floating parts" which only stay connected because they're pressed together, but aren't permanently connected) can be dangerous when those parts work themselves out of position. Especially when those parts are carrying electric current. Ever see someone hold two bare wires close together, but not touching, and there's an electrical arc that looks like a tiny lightning bolt? Yeah. That's what happens when "floating parts" aren't quite where they're supposed to be. And needless to say, that kind of situation isn't exactly ideal.
Furthermore, in an effort to keep these overly-complicated adapters as compact and lightweight (and profitable) as possible, manufacturers cut back on the materials. Less metal on the inside equals less conductivity, which results in more electrical resistance, which creates heat. Heat is bad. Especially when the outer shell of the adapter is made of cheap ABS plastic, which will melt and catch fire. Cheap materials + as little of those materials as possible + moving/floating parts = breakage. Don't even think about dropping it.

Our EA Series Plug Adapters: the only ones that are actually built the right way, with the right materials
We'll say it again: plug adapters are not "all the same." Not by a long shot. Our EA Series plug adapters are the only adapters on the market that can actually be considered safe and reliable. Why? Superior materials and engineering. No shortcuts taken, ever. It's why ours are the only adapters that can't be overloaded, won't melt, and won't catch fire.
The conductive metal parts inside our adapters are made of phosphorus copper, which is second only to silver in terms of conductivity. It's the same stuff the wires in your appliance's power cord, and the wires in the wall connected to the outlet, are usually made of. Generic adapters use brass, which is about 70% less conductive than copper. Lower conductivity is bad, because A) the adapter can't handle as much electricity, and B) lower conductivity means higher electrical resistance, which creates heat. Heat is bad!
Furthermore, all connection points inside our adapters are riveted. No moving parts, no "floating" parts. Not only does this make our adapters virtually unbreakable, this combined with the phosphorus copper is why our plug adapters are the only adapters capable of handling the full amperage of the wall outlet they're plugged into. Generic adapters use "pressed-on" connections, which is another reason they can only handle up to 6 amps. It's also why they tend to break so easily.
Meanwhile, our adapter's outer shell is made of PC V110 polycarbonate, as opposed to the ABS plastic used in generic adapters. Polycarbonate has twice the impact strength of ABS, which is why other adapters break and ours don't. Polycarbonate is also roughly twice as heat-resistant as ABS plastic, which is why our adapters don't melt. Polycarbonate is extremely flame-retardant (some engineers even consider it to be "self-extinguishing" if, for example, you were to put a torch to it) while ABS plastic ignites at a lower temperature than propane! And most importantly, polycarbonate is a far superior electrical insulator. If the most important thing inside an adapter is conductivity, the most important thing on the outside is non-conductivity.
| IEC 60884-2-5 AMPERAGE RATING / OVERLOAD TEMPERATURE RISE TEST RESULTS | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Plug Adapter | for outlet type | Rated Amps | Tested Amps | Tested time | Temp Rise (Kelvin) |
| EA5 | Type B North American NEMA 5-15 | 15.0 Amps | 18.8 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.3 K |
| EA6 | Type A Japanese JIS C 8303 | 15.0 Amps | 18.8 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.3 K |
| EA18 | North American NEMA 6-15 | 15.0 Amps | 18.8 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.3 K |
| EA21 | North American NEMA 6-20 | 20.0 Amps | 25.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 43.2 K |
| EA7 | Type G British BS-1363 | 13.0 Amps | 16.3 Amps | 1 Hour | 35.5 K |
| EA9 | Type E/F European CEE 7/4-5 Schuko | 16.0 Amps | 20.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.1 K |
| EA9C | Type C European CEE 7/16 Europlug | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 30.0 K |
| EA11 | Type J Swiss SEV 1011 | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 32.5 K |
| EA12 | Type L Italian CEI 23-16/VII | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 32.5 K |
| EA16 | Type I Australian AS-3112 | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 23.8 K |
| All Generic Adapters | 3 to 6 Amps | 4.2 to 8.4 Amps | 1 Hour | 44.8 to 120 K (!!!) | |
All that is why our EA Series plug adapters are the only adapters the US Military will use. It's why our adapters are used in US foreign embassies all around the world. It's why they're used in Microsoft and Google data centers. It's why Boeing installs them in their aircraft. If they're not willing to chance it when it comes to their mission-critical applications, why would you? Be safe! Electricity is serious business. Buy your adapters from people who actually take it seriously.

EA9C Type C Travel Plug Adapter for Europe (CEE 7/16 Europlug)
Save: 20% off
EA9 Type E/F Travel Plug Adapter for Europe (CEE 7/7 Schuko)
EA9 Type E/F Travel Plug Adapter for Europe (CEE 7/7 Schuko)
6 Reviews
Save: 20% off
Availability : In stock
This plug adapter changes the shape of an appliance's plug so that it can plug into a Type F (German Style CEE 7/4) European Schuko wall outlet, or a Type E (French Style CEE 7/5) European Schuko wall outlet.
The receptacle side of the adapter can accept any standard household plug type from any country, except the Type M (South African SABS 1661) plug.
The plug side is a CEE 7/7 hybrid Schuko plug, which is compatible with both the German and French variations of the Schuko wall outlet. Its pins are 4.8mm in diameter, 19mm long and spaced 19mm apart. The plug has both side grounding clips and a receptacle for the male grounding pin found in French Schuko sockets.
Our EA Series plug adapters have recently been completely re-engineered from the inside out. It's the first significant advancement in plug adapter technology in 25 years! The redesigned internal structure makes these plug adapters the only ones on the market that meet IEC 60884-2-5 Amperage Rating / Temperature Rise standards.
Don't know what that means? We'll explain why it's incredibly important. But in the meantime, here's the short answer: It's the reason why our adapters are the only ones the US Military, the US Department of State, the US Department of Homeland Security, and 17 US Foreign Embassies trust enough to use for their mission-critical applications.

Be safe! Don't let this happen to you!
Oh, it happens all the time. Which is why the "Just buy an adapter when you get there, you can find them anywhere for a few bucks." comments you may have seen on travel forums are bad advice. Most adapters sold in foreign countries would be illegal to sell in the United States and Canada. Why? Because they wouldn't pass safety standards.
It's honestly frightening how little thought many people give to something that stands between them and the complete destruction of their expensive devices and appliances. Or worse yet, a fire. Electricity is a deadly serious matter. Give it the respect it deserves. Don't let a few bucks, or just plain indifference, put you in a potentially dangerous situation. Plug adapters are not "all the same." Not by a long shot.
Most plug adapters, even ones sold in the US and Canada, can only handle up to 6 amps of electricity. (As long as they're labeled as such, they're "legal" but that doesn't do you much good if you don't know or care what "amps" means.) The problem is that every household wall outlet in the world is capable of supplying at least 10 amps. In the UK, it's 13 amps. In North America, it's 15 amps. In the EU, it's 16 amps. What that means is that a generic plug adapter can easily be overloaded. An 1800-watt hair dryer draws 15 amps, for example. That's more than twice the amps a generic plug adapter can handle. What happens then? Well, first the adapter melts. Then it catches fire. Quickly. The horror stories are numerous. Don't let it happen to you!
Our EA Series adapters don't have that extremely serious problem, because they're the only adapters on the market that are rated to the full amperage of the wall outlet they're designed to plug into. (Furthermore, they're actually tested at 25% to 40% higher than that, for a full hour.) Bottom line? Our EA Series adapters simply can't be overloaded. You'd trip a breaker (or "blow a fuse" if you're of a certain age) in the building before you could ever approach any kind of overload that would cause our adapters to melt or catch fire. It's the reason why the US Military and State Department will use only our adapters.

Don't be fooled by mass-marketed knockoffs. They're unreliable at best, legitimately dangerous at worst.
Image 1 is a typical plug adapter you'd buy from a street vendor abroad. Shockingly, these are also available in US and Canadian "travel shops" at airports and online. They're bad news. They're usually not labeled to indicate their amperage/wattage ratings, and you're lucky if they support a paltry 3 amps. You might as well try to connect your device or appliance with a couple of paper clips wrapped in rubber bands. (Note: Please don't try that.) The outer shell is made of ABS plastic, which will melt and catch fire within 30 seconds if overloaded.
Image 2 is a slightly better constructed adapter, the kind you might find in an airport travel shop or online. But it still only supports 6 amps, or about half of what the outlet is capable of supplying. Worse yet, see that second receptacle on the top? These adapters are often marketed as "2 in 1" as if that's a feature. It's not a feature, it's a bug. That adapter is just begging to be overloaded. It can barely support the amps being drawn by one device or appliance, let alone two.
Images 3 and 4 are so-called "multi-adapters" or "all in one" adapters. And that seems like a good idea, at least in theory. Unfortunately, as a practical matter, they present a multitude of problems. For one thing, moving parts. Moving parts are bad. There's a reason power cords and their plugs don't have moving parts. Moving parts (or, worse yet, "floating parts" which only stay connected because they're pressed together, but aren't permanently connected) can be dangerous when those parts work themselves out of position. Especially when those parts are carrying electric current. Ever see someone hold two bare wires close together, but not touching, and there's an electrical arc that looks like a tiny lightning bolt? Yeah. That's what happens when "floating parts" aren't quite where they're supposed to be. And needless to say, that kind of situation isn't exactly ideal.
Furthermore, in an effort to keep these overly-complicated adapters as compact and lightweight (and profitable) as possible, manufacturers cut back on the materials. Less metal on the inside equals less conductivity, which results in more electrical resistance, which creates heat. Heat is bad. Especially when the outer shell of the adapter is made of cheap ABS plastic, which will melt and catch fire. Cheap materials + as little of those materials as possible + moving/floating parts = breakage. Don't even think about dropping it.

Our EA Series Plug Adapters: the only ones that are actually built the right way, with the right materials
We'll say it again: plug adapters are not "all the same." Not by a long shot. Our EA Series plug adapters are the only adapters on the market that can actually be considered safe and reliable. Why? Superior materials and engineering. No shortcuts taken, ever. It's why ours are the only adapters that can't be overloaded, won't melt, and won't catch fire.
The conductive metal parts inside our adapters are made of phosphorus copper, which is second only to silver in terms of conductivity. It's the same stuff the wires in your appliance's power cord, and the wires in the wall connected to the outlet, are usually made of. Generic adapters use brass, which is about 70% less conductive than copper. Lower conductivity is bad, because A) the adapter can't handle as much electricity, and B) lower conductivity means higher electrical resistance, which creates heat. Heat is bad!
Furthermore, all connection points inside our adapters are riveted. No moving parts, no "floating" parts. Not only does this make our adapters virtually unbreakable, this combined with the phosphorus copper is why our plug adapters are the only adapters capable of handling the full amperage of the wall outlet they're plugged into. Generic adapters use "pressed-on" connections, which is another reason they can only handle up to 6 amps. It's also why they tend to break so easily.
Meanwhile, our adapter's outer shell is made of PC V110 polycarbonate, as opposed to the ABS plastic used in generic adapters. Polycarbonate has twice the impact strength of ABS, which is why other adapters break and ours don't. Polycarbonate is also roughly twice as heat-resistant as ABS plastic, which is why our adapters don't melt. Polycarbonate is extremely flame-retardant (some engineers even consider it to be "self-extinguishing" if, for example, you were to put a torch to it) while ABS plastic ignites at a lower temperature than propane! And most importantly, polycarbonate is a far superior electrical insulator. If the most important thing inside an adapter is conductivity, the most important thing on the outside is non-conductivity.
| IEC 60884-2-5 AMPERAGE RATING / OVERLOAD TEMPERATURE RISE TEST RESULTS | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Plug Adapter | for outlet type | Rated Amps | Tested Amps | Tested time | Temp Rise (Kelvin) |
| EA5 | Type B North American NEMA 5-15 | 15.0 Amps | 18.8 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.3 K |
| EA6 | Type A Japanese JIS C 8303 | 15.0 Amps | 18.8 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.3 K |
| EA18 | North American NEMA 6-15 | 15.0 Amps | 18.8 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.3 K |
| EA21 | North American NEMA 6-20 | 20.0 Amps | 25.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 43.2 K |
| EA7 | Type G British BS-1363 | 13.0 Amps | 16.3 Amps | 1 Hour | 35.5 K |
| EA9 | Type E/F European CEE 7/4-5 Schuko | 16.0 Amps | 20.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.1 K |
| EA9C | Type C European CEE 7/16 Europlug | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 30.0 K |
| EA11 | Type J Swiss SEV 1011 | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 32.5 K |
| EA12 | Type L Italian CEI 23-16/VII | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 32.5 K |
| EA16 | Type I Australian AS-3112 | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 23.8 K |
| All Generic Adapters | 3 to 6 Amps | 4.2 to 8.4 Amps | 1 Hour | 44.8 to 120 K (!!!) | |
All that is why our EA Series plug adapters are the only adapters the US Military will use. It's why our adapters are used in US foreign embassies all around the world. It's why they're used in Microsoft and Google data centers. It's why Boeing installs them in their aircraft. If they're not willing to chance it when it comes to their mission-critical applications, why would you? Be safe! Electricity is serious business. Buy your adapters from people who actually take it seriously.

EA9 Type E/F Travel Plug Adapter for Europe (CEE 7/7 Schuko)
Save: 20% off
Krieger ULT600 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (600 Watt Capacity)
Krieger ULT600 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (600 Watt Capacity)
0 Reviews
Save: 27% off
Availability : In stock
Krieger Professional Grade voltage transformers can be used as either a step up transformer or a step down transformer. This professional grade voltage transformer can be used in 110 volt countries and 220 volt countries. It will convert from 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts AND from 110-120 volts to 220-240 volts. Simply select the input voltage coming from the wall outlet via a voltage selector switch on the back of the unit, and plug your appliance into the outlet on the front of the unit which matches your appliance's required input voltage.
- Can be used in 110-120 volt countries and 220-240 volt countries
- Convert from 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts (step down mode)
- Converts from 110-120 volt to 220-240 volt (step up mode)
- Includes 2 IEC cords (US Grounded and European Schuko)
- On/Off Switch
- Dual fuse protection (120 & 230V)
- Conforms to UL 1012, Certified to CSA std. C22.2 No. 107.1

Krieger ULT600 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (600 Watt Capacity)
Save: 27% off
Energizer EN2000 12V DC to 120V AC Power Inverter (2000 Watt Capacity)
Energizer EN2000 12V DC to 120V AC Power Inverter (2000 Watt Capacity)
0 Reviews
Save: 33% off
Availability : In stock
Get power on the GO! Run your AC electrical devices in a car, truck, boat or RV. This heavy duty power inverter connects directly to a 12 volt DC battery to power microwaves, power tools, televisions, gaming consoles, home electronics and small appliances in your vehicle. This unit also features an LCD display, which shows the output wattage or input voltage and battery level. With this inverter, you will never be left without power when you need it.
- 2000 watts continuous / 4000 watts peak power
- LCD Display: Input Voltage / Output Wattage / Battery Level
- Ultra Silent (thermal fan)
- Two (2) standard North American AC outlets
- Two (2) USB charging ports provide 2.1A (shared)
- Tablet charging compatible from USB ports
- Battery cables sold separately

Energizer EN2000 12V DC to 120V AC Power Inverter (2000 Watt Capacity)
Save: 33% off
EA9C Type C Travel Plug Adapter for Europe (CEE 7/16 Europlug)
EA9C Type C Travel Plug Adapter for Europe (CEE 7/16 Europlug)
3 Reviews
Save: 20% off
Availability : In stock
This plug adapter changes the shape of an appliance's plug so that it can plug into a Type C (European CEE 7/16 Europlug) wall outlet, or a Soviet-era Russian (GOST 7396) wall outlet.
The receptacle side of the adapter can accept any standard household plug type from any country, except the Type M (South African SABS 1661) plug.
The plug side is a Type C CEE 7/16 Europlug, which is loosely compatible with several other types of wall outlets as well. They include Type F (German CEE 7/4 Schuko) and Type E (French CEE 7/5 Schuko) outlets, Type L (Italian CEI 23-16/VII) outlets, Type H (Israeli SI-32) outlets, Type J (Swiss SEV 1011) and Type K (Danish SRAF 1962/DB) outlets, although connections to these outlets will be non-grounded. The adapter's pins are 4.0mm in diameter, 19mm long and spaced 19mm apart. The plug is non-polarized and non-grounded.
Our EA Series plug adapters have recently been completely re-engineered from the inside out. It's the first significant advancement in plug adapter technology in 25 years! The redesigned internal structure makes these plug adapters the only ones on the market that meet IEC 60884-2-5 Amperage Rating / Temperature Rise standards.
Don't know what that means? We'll explain why it's incredibly important. But in the meantime, here's the short answer: It's the reason why our adapters are the only ones the US Military, the US Department of State, the US Department of Homeland Security, and 17 US Foreign Embassies trust enough to use for their mission-critical applications.

Be safe! Don't let this happen to you!
Oh, it happens all the time. Which is why the "Just buy an adapter when you get there, you can find them anywhere for a few bucks." comments you may have seen on travel forums are bad advice. Most adapters sold in foreign countries would be illegal to sell in the United States and Canada. Why? Because they wouldn't pass safety standards.
It's honestly frightening how little thought many people give to something that stands between them and the complete destruction of their expensive devices and appliances. Or worse yet, a fire. Electricity is a deadly serious matter. Give it the respect it deserves. Don't let a few bucks, or just plain indifference, put you in a potentially dangerous situation. Plug adapters are not "all the same." Not by a long shot.
Most plug adapters, even ones sold in the US and Canada, can only handle up to 6 amps of electricity. (As long as they're labeled as such, they're "legal" but that doesn't do you much good if you don't know or care what "amps" means.) The problem is that every household wall outlet in the world is capable of supplying at least 10 amps. In the UK, it's 13 amps. In North America, it's 15 amps. In the EU, it's 16 amps. What that means is that a generic plug adapter can easily be overloaded. An 1800-watt hair dryer draws 15 amps, for example. That's more than twice the amps a generic plug adapter can handle. What happens then? Well, first the adapter melts. Then it catches fire. Quickly. The horror stories are numerous. Don't let it happen to you!
Our EA Series adapters don't have that extremely serious problem, because they're the only adapters on the market that are rated to the full amperage of the wall outlet they're designed to plug into. (Furthermore, they're actually tested at 25% to 40% higher than that, for a full hour.) Bottom line? Our EA Series adapters simply can't be overloaded. You'd trip a breaker (or "blow a fuse" if you're of a certain age) in the building before you could ever approach any kind of overload that would cause our adapters to melt or catch fire. It's the reason why the US Military and State Department will use only our adapters.

Don't be fooled by mass-marketed knockoffs. They're unreliable at best, legitimately dangerous at worst.
Image 1 is a typical plug adapter you'd buy from a street vendor abroad. Shockingly, these are also available in US and Canadian "travel shops" at airports and online. They're bad news. They're usually not labeled to indicate their amperage/wattage ratings, and you're lucky if they support a paltry 3 amps. You might as well try to connect your device or appliance with a couple of paper clips wrapped in rubber bands. (Note: Please don't try that.) The outer shell is made of ABS plastic, which will melt and catch fire within 30 seconds if overloaded.
Image 2 is a slightly better constructed adapter, the kind you might find in an airport travel shop or online. But it still only supports 6 amps, or about half of what the outlet is capable of supplying. Worse yet, see that second receptacle on the top? These adapters are often marketed as "2 in 1" as if that's a feature. It's not a feature, it's a bug. That adapter is just begging to be overloaded. It can barely support the amps being drawn by one device or appliance, let alone two.
Images 3 and 4 are so-called "multi-adapters" or "all in one" adapters. And that seems like a good idea, at least in theory. Unfortunately, as a practical matter, they present a multitude of problems. For one thing, moving parts. Moving parts are bad. There's a reason power cords and their plugs don't have moving parts. Moving parts (or, worse yet, "floating parts" which only stay connected because they're pressed together, but aren't permanently connected) can be dangerous when those parts work themselves out of position. Especially when those parts are carrying electric current. Ever see someone hold two bare wires close together, but not touching, and there's an electrical arc that looks like a tiny lightning bolt? Yeah. That's what happens when "floating parts" aren't quite where they're supposed to be. And needless to say, that kind of situation isn't exactly ideal.
Furthermore, in an effort to keep these overly-complicated adapters as compact and lightweight (and profitable) as possible, manufacturers cut back on the materials. Less metal on the inside equals less conductivity, which results in more electrical resistance, which creates heat. Heat is bad. Especially when the outer shell of the adapter is made of cheap ABS plastic, which will melt and catch fire. Cheap materials + as little of those materials as possible + moving/floating parts = breakage. Don't even think about dropping it.

Our EA Series Plug Adapters: the only ones that are actually built the right way, with the right materials
We'll say it again: plug adapters are not "all the same." Not by a long shot. Our EA Series plug adapters are the only adapters on the market that can actually be considered safe and reliable. Why? Superior materials and engineering. No shortcuts taken, ever. It's why ours are the only adapters that can't be overloaded, won't melt, and won't catch fire.
The conductive metal parts inside our adapters are made of phosphorus copper, which is second only to silver in terms of conductivity. It's the same stuff the wires in your appliance's power cord, and the wires in the wall connected to the outlet, are usually made of. Generic adapters use brass, which is about 70% less conductive than copper. Lower conductivity is bad, because A) the adapter can't handle as much electricity, and B) lower conductivity means higher electrical resistance, which creates heat. Heat is bad!
Furthermore, all connection points inside our adapters are riveted. No moving parts, no "floating" parts. Not only does this make our adapters virtually unbreakable, this combined with the phosphorus copper is why our plug adapters are the only adapters capable of handling the full amperage of the wall outlet they're plugged into. Generic adapters use "pressed-on" connections, which is another reason they can only handle up to 6 amps. It's also why they tend to break so easily.
Meanwhile, our adapter's outer shell is made of PC V110 polycarbonate, as opposed to the ABS plastic used in generic adapters. Polycarbonate has twice the impact strength of ABS, which is why other adapters break and ours don't. Polycarbonate is also roughly twice as heat-resistant as ABS plastic, which is why our adapters don't melt. Polycarbonate is extremely flame-retardant (some engineers even consider it to be "self-extinguishing" if, for example, you were to put a torch to it) while ABS plastic ignites at a lower temperature than propane! And most importantly, polycarbonate is a far superior electrical insulator. If the most important thing inside an adapter is conductivity, the most important thing on the outside is non-conductivity.
| IEC 60884-2-5 AMPERAGE RATING / OVERLOAD TEMPERATURE RISE TEST RESULTS | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Plug Adapter | for outlet type | Rated Amps | Tested Amps | Tested time | Temp Rise (Kelvin) |
| EA5 | Type B North American NEMA 5-15 | 15.0 Amps | 18.8 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.3 K |
| EA6 | Type A Japanese JIS C 8303 | 15.0 Amps | 18.8 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.3 K |
| EA18 | North American NEMA 6-15 | 15.0 Amps | 18.8 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.3 K |
| EA21 | North American NEMA 6-20 | 20.0 Amps | 25.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 43.2 K |
| EA7 | Type G British BS-1363 | 13.0 Amps | 16.3 Amps | 1 Hour | 35.5 K |
| EA9 | Type E/F European CEE 7/4-5 Schuko | 16.0 Amps | 20.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.1 K |
| EA9C | Type C European CEE 7/16 Europlug | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 30.0 K |
| EA11 | Type J Swiss SEV 1011 | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 32.5 K |
| EA12 | Type L Italian CEI 23-16/VII | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 32.5 K |
| EA16 | Type I Australian AS-3112 | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 23.8 K |
| All Generic Adapters | 3 to 6 Amps | 4.2 to 8.4 Amps | 1 Hour | 44.8 to 120 K (!!!) | |
All that is why our EA Series plug adapters are the only adapters the US Military will use. It's why our adapters are used in US foreign embassies all around the world. It's why they're used in Microsoft and Google data centers. It's why Boeing installs them in their aircraft. If they're not willing to chance it when it comes to their mission-critical applications, why would you? Be safe! Electricity is serious business. Buy your adapters from people who actually take it seriously.

EA9C Type C Travel Plug Adapter for Europe (CEE 7/16 Europlug)
Save: 20% off
EA9 Type E/F Travel Plug Adapter for Europe (CEE 7/7 Schuko)
EA9 Type E/F Travel Plug Adapter for Europe (CEE 7/7 Schuko)
6 Reviews
Save: 20% off
Availability : In stock
This plug adapter changes the shape of an appliance's plug so that it can plug into a Type F (German Style CEE 7/4) European Schuko wall outlet, or a Type E (French Style CEE 7/5) European Schuko wall outlet.
The receptacle side of the adapter can accept any standard household plug type from any country, except the Type M (South African SABS 1661) plug.
The plug side is a CEE 7/7 hybrid Schuko plug, which is compatible with both the German and French variations of the Schuko wall outlet. Its pins are 4.8mm in diameter, 19mm long and spaced 19mm apart. The plug has both side grounding clips and a receptacle for the male grounding pin found in French Schuko sockets.
Our EA Series plug adapters have recently been completely re-engineered from the inside out. It's the first significant advancement in plug adapter technology in 25 years! The redesigned internal structure makes these plug adapters the only ones on the market that meet IEC 60884-2-5 Amperage Rating / Temperature Rise standards.
Don't know what that means? We'll explain why it's incredibly important. But in the meantime, here's the short answer: It's the reason why our adapters are the only ones the US Military, the US Department of State, the US Department of Homeland Security, and 17 US Foreign Embassies trust enough to use for their mission-critical applications.

Be safe! Don't let this happen to you!
Oh, it happens all the time. Which is why the "Just buy an adapter when you get there, you can find them anywhere for a few bucks." comments you may have seen on travel forums are bad advice. Most adapters sold in foreign countries would be illegal to sell in the United States and Canada. Why? Because they wouldn't pass safety standards.
It's honestly frightening how little thought many people give to something that stands between them and the complete destruction of their expensive devices and appliances. Or worse yet, a fire. Electricity is a deadly serious matter. Give it the respect it deserves. Don't let a few bucks, or just plain indifference, put you in a potentially dangerous situation. Plug adapters are not "all the same." Not by a long shot.
Most plug adapters, even ones sold in the US and Canada, can only handle up to 6 amps of electricity. (As long as they're labeled as such, they're "legal" but that doesn't do you much good if you don't know or care what "amps" means.) The problem is that every household wall outlet in the world is capable of supplying at least 10 amps. In the UK, it's 13 amps. In North America, it's 15 amps. In the EU, it's 16 amps. What that means is that a generic plug adapter can easily be overloaded. An 1800-watt hair dryer draws 15 amps, for example. That's more than twice the amps a generic plug adapter can handle. What happens then? Well, first the adapter melts. Then it catches fire. Quickly. The horror stories are numerous. Don't let it happen to you!
Our EA Series adapters don't have that extremely serious problem, because they're the only adapters on the market that are rated to the full amperage of the wall outlet they're designed to plug into. (Furthermore, they're actually tested at 25% to 40% higher than that, for a full hour.) Bottom line? Our EA Series adapters simply can't be overloaded. You'd trip a breaker (or "blow a fuse" if you're of a certain age) in the building before you could ever approach any kind of overload that would cause our adapters to melt or catch fire. It's the reason why the US Military and State Department will use only our adapters.

Don't be fooled by mass-marketed knockoffs. They're unreliable at best, legitimately dangerous at worst.
Image 1 is a typical plug adapter you'd buy from a street vendor abroad. Shockingly, these are also available in US and Canadian "travel shops" at airports and online. They're bad news. They're usually not labeled to indicate their amperage/wattage ratings, and you're lucky if they support a paltry 3 amps. You might as well try to connect your device or appliance with a couple of paper clips wrapped in rubber bands. (Note: Please don't try that.) The outer shell is made of ABS plastic, which will melt and catch fire within 30 seconds if overloaded.
Image 2 is a slightly better constructed adapter, the kind you might find in an airport travel shop or online. But it still only supports 6 amps, or about half of what the outlet is capable of supplying. Worse yet, see that second receptacle on the top? These adapters are often marketed as "2 in 1" as if that's a feature. It's not a feature, it's a bug. That adapter is just begging to be overloaded. It can barely support the amps being drawn by one device or appliance, let alone two.
Images 3 and 4 are so-called "multi-adapters" or "all in one" adapters. And that seems like a good idea, at least in theory. Unfortunately, as a practical matter, they present a multitude of problems. For one thing, moving parts. Moving parts are bad. There's a reason power cords and their plugs don't have moving parts. Moving parts (or, worse yet, "floating parts" which only stay connected because they're pressed together, but aren't permanently connected) can be dangerous when those parts work themselves out of position. Especially when those parts are carrying electric current. Ever see someone hold two bare wires close together, but not touching, and there's an electrical arc that looks like a tiny lightning bolt? Yeah. That's what happens when "floating parts" aren't quite where they're supposed to be. And needless to say, that kind of situation isn't exactly ideal.
Furthermore, in an effort to keep these overly-complicated adapters as compact and lightweight (and profitable) as possible, manufacturers cut back on the materials. Less metal on the inside equals less conductivity, which results in more electrical resistance, which creates heat. Heat is bad. Especially when the outer shell of the adapter is made of cheap ABS plastic, which will melt and catch fire. Cheap materials + as little of those materials as possible + moving/floating parts = breakage. Don't even think about dropping it.

Our EA Series Plug Adapters: the only ones that are actually built the right way, with the right materials
We'll say it again: plug adapters are not "all the same." Not by a long shot. Our EA Series plug adapters are the only adapters on the market that can actually be considered safe and reliable. Why? Superior materials and engineering. No shortcuts taken, ever. It's why ours are the only adapters that can't be overloaded, won't melt, and won't catch fire.
The conductive metal parts inside our adapters are made of phosphorus copper, which is second only to silver in terms of conductivity. It's the same stuff the wires in your appliance's power cord, and the wires in the wall connected to the outlet, are usually made of. Generic adapters use brass, which is about 70% less conductive than copper. Lower conductivity is bad, because A) the adapter can't handle as much electricity, and B) lower conductivity means higher electrical resistance, which creates heat. Heat is bad!
Furthermore, all connection points inside our adapters are riveted. No moving parts, no "floating" parts. Not only does this make our adapters virtually unbreakable, this combined with the phosphorus copper is why our plug adapters are the only adapters capable of handling the full amperage of the wall outlet they're plugged into. Generic adapters use "pressed-on" connections, which is another reason they can only handle up to 6 amps. It's also why they tend to break so easily.
Meanwhile, our adapter's outer shell is made of PC V110 polycarbonate, as opposed to the ABS plastic used in generic adapters. Polycarbonate has twice the impact strength of ABS, which is why other adapters break and ours don't. Polycarbonate is also roughly twice as heat-resistant as ABS plastic, which is why our adapters don't melt. Polycarbonate is extremely flame-retardant (some engineers even consider it to be "self-extinguishing" if, for example, you were to put a torch to it) while ABS plastic ignites at a lower temperature than propane! And most importantly, polycarbonate is a far superior electrical insulator. If the most important thing inside an adapter is conductivity, the most important thing on the outside is non-conductivity.
| IEC 60884-2-5 AMPERAGE RATING / OVERLOAD TEMPERATURE RISE TEST RESULTS | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Plug Adapter | for outlet type | Rated Amps | Tested Amps | Tested time | Temp Rise (Kelvin) |
| EA5 | Type B North American NEMA 5-15 | 15.0 Amps | 18.8 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.3 K |
| EA6 | Type A Japanese JIS C 8303 | 15.0 Amps | 18.8 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.3 K |
| EA18 | North American NEMA 6-15 | 15.0 Amps | 18.8 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.3 K |
| EA21 | North American NEMA 6-20 | 20.0 Amps | 25.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 43.2 K |
| EA7 | Type G British BS-1363 | 13.0 Amps | 16.3 Amps | 1 Hour | 35.5 K |
| EA9 | Type E/F European CEE 7/4-5 Schuko | 16.0 Amps | 20.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 36.1 K |
| EA9C | Type C European CEE 7/16 Europlug | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 30.0 K |
| EA11 | Type J Swiss SEV 1011 | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 32.5 K |
| EA12 | Type L Italian CEI 23-16/VII | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 32.5 K |
| EA16 | Type I Australian AS-3112 | 10.0 Amps | 14.0 Amps | 1 Hour | 23.8 K |
| All Generic Adapters | 3 to 6 Amps | 4.2 to 8.4 Amps | 1 Hour | 44.8 to 120 K (!!!) | |
All that is why our EA Series plug adapters are the only adapters the US Military will use. It's why our adapters are used in US foreign embassies all around the world. It's why they're used in Microsoft and Google data centers. It's why Boeing installs them in their aircraft. If they're not willing to chance it when it comes to their mission-critical applications, why would you? Be safe! Electricity is serious business. Buy your adapters from people who actually take it seriously.

EA9 Type E/F Travel Plug Adapter for Europe (CEE 7/7 Schuko)
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Krieger ULT600 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (600 Watt Capacity)
Krieger ULT600 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (600 Watt Capacity)
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Availability : In stock
Krieger Professional Grade voltage transformers can be used as either a step up transformer or a step down transformer. This professional grade voltage transformer can be used in 110 volt countries and 220 volt countries. It will convert from 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts AND from 110-120 volts to 220-240 volts. Simply select the input voltage coming from the wall outlet via a voltage selector switch on the back of the unit, and plug your appliance into the outlet on the front of the unit which matches your appliance's required input voltage.
- Can be used in 110-120 volt countries and 220-240 volt countries
- Convert from 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts (step down mode)
- Converts from 110-120 volt to 220-240 volt (step up mode)
- Includes 2 IEC cords (US Grounded and European Schuko)
- On/Off Switch
- Dual fuse protection (120 & 230V)
- Conforms to UL 1012, Certified to CSA std. C22.2 No. 107.1

Krieger ULT600 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (600 Watt Capacity)
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Energizer EN2000 12V DC to 120V AC Power Inverter (2000 Watt Capacity)
Energizer EN2000 12V DC to 120V AC Power Inverter (2000 Watt Capacity)
0 Reviews
Save: 33% off
Availability : In stock
Get power on the GO! Run your AC electrical devices in a car, truck, boat or RV. This heavy duty power inverter connects directly to a 12 volt DC battery to power microwaves, power tools, televisions, gaming consoles, home electronics and small appliances in your vehicle. This unit also features an LCD display, which shows the output wattage or input voltage and battery level. With this inverter, you will never be left without power when you need it.
- 2000 watts continuous / 4000 watts peak power
- LCD Display: Input Voltage / Output Wattage / Battery Level
- Ultra Silent (thermal fan)
- Two (2) standard North American AC outlets
- Two (2) USB charging ports provide 2.1A (shared)
- Tablet charging compatible from USB ports
- Battery cables sold separately

Energizer EN2000 12V DC to 120V AC Power Inverter (2000 Watt Capacity)
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PowerBright VC300W Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (300 Watt Capacity)
PowerBright VC300W Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (300 Watt Capacity)
0 Reviews
Save: 42% off
Availability : In stock
Unlike most other voltage transformers, PowerBright transformers can be used as either a step up transformer or a step down transformer. This means a PowerBright transformer will work for just about anybody, no matter what the origin and destination countries may be. (Exceptions are Japan (100V) and a handful of countries whose standard voltage is 127V.) Simply select the input voltage coming from the wall outlet via a jumper on the back of the unit, and plug your appliance into the outlet on the front of the unit which matches your appliance's required input voltage.
If you are bringing a U.S. or Canadian 110-120 volt appliance to a country where the voltage is 220-240 volts, you need a step down transformer. Step down transformers take the 220-240 volt electricity supplied in most countries, and convert the voltage down to 110-120 volts for use by the appliance. PowerBright transformers do that.
On the other hand, if you are bringing a 220-240 volt appliance from another country to the U.S. or Canada where the voltage is 110-120 volts, you need a step up transformer. Step up transformers take the 110-120 volt electricity supplied in the U.S. and Canada, and convert the voltage up to 220-240 volts for use by the appliance. The same PowerBright transformer will do that too.
But do I need a voltage transformer? Or would a plug adapter be enough?
Well, that depends on what you need to plug in. If your appliance's voltage matches the local voltage at your destination, then a plug adapter will do just fine all by itself. But if your appliance is not compatible with the local voltage, that's when a voltage transformer comes in. Voltage transformers actually change the local voltage to a voltage that's suitable for your appliance.
Wall outlets in most parts of the world outside of North America generally supply electricity at between 220 and 240 volts AC. If you're plugging in an appliance that was built for 220-240 volt electrical input, or an appliance that is compatible with multiple voltages, then an adapter is all you need.
But plug adapters do not change voltage, so the electricity coming through the adapter will still be the same 220-240 volts the wall outlet is supplying. North American wall outlets supply electricity at between 110 and 120 volts, far lower than in most of the rest of the world. Consequently, North American appliances are generally built for 110-120 volts. But that doesn't mean that your specific appliance isn't already compatible with the higher voltage -- it may very well be. In fact, most chargers for modern smartphones/iPhones, tablets/iPads, laptops and digital cameras are already multi-voltage compatible. Check your charger for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V" ... voila!
On the other hand, most "conventional appliances" like kitchen items, audio/video equipment, vacuum cleaners, lamps and lights, and most bath appliances are not compatible with multiple voltages, and need to have the voltage changed by way of a voltage transformer like this one. The only way to know for sure is to check the label, or the back of the manual, and determine the specific electrical input requirements for the specific device/appliance in question.
Is this transformer big enough to support my appliance?
The transformer you buy must be capable of supporting the amps and/or watts that your appliance needs in order to operate. If the transformer is too small, you will blow the fuse. The model VC300W supports 300 watts. So as long as your appliance is 300 watts or less, this transformer should be fine.
The watts and/or amps that your appliance requires can be found on a label on the appliance (usually on the bottom or back) where the brand name and model number appear. If the appliance uses a charger or AC adapter, the information will appear on the charger. Look for something like this: "Input: 120V 60Hz 100W " The "W" number is the watts. For this model transformer, that "W" number should be 300 or below.
Sometimes the label will show amps instead of watts. In that case the information would look something like: "Input: 120V 60Hz 10.0A " If the label lists amps, you can figure out a rough approximation of the watts by multiplying the amps by the volts (the "V" number). Example: 120 volts x 10.0 amps = 1200 watts. In this case, the VC300W would not be big enough to support the appliance. You would need to buy a transformer with a higher wattage capacity. PowerBright manufactures transformers that support up to 3000 watts!

PowerBright VC300W Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (300 Watt Capacity)
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PowerBright VC750W Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (750 Watt Capacity)
PowerBright VC750W Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (750 Watt Capacity)
0 Reviews
Save: 38% off
Availability : In stock
Unlike most other voltage transformers, PowerBright transformers can be used as either a step up transformer or a step down transformer. This means a PowerBright transformer will work for just about anybody, no matter what the origin and destination countries may be. (Exceptions are Japan (100V) and a handful of countries whose standard voltage is 127V.) Simply select the input voltage coming from the wall outlet via a jumper on the back of the unit, and plug your appliance into the outlet on the front of the unit which matches your appliance's required input voltage.
If you are bringing a U.S. or Canadian 110-120 volt appliance to a country where the voltage is 220-240 volts, you need a step down transformer. Step down transformers take the 220-240 volt electricity supplied in most countries, and convert the voltage down to 110-120 volts for use by the appliance. PowerBright transformers do that.
On the other hand, if you are bringing a 220-240 volt appliance from another country to the U.S. or Canada where the voltage is 110-120 volts, you need a step up transformer. Step up transformers take the 110-120 volt electricity supplied in the U.S. and Canada, and convert the voltage up to 220-240 volts for use by the appliance. The same PowerBright transformer will do that too.
But do I need a voltage transformer? Or would a plug adapter be enough?
Well, that depends on what you need to plug in. If your appliance's voltage matches the local voltage at your destination, then a plug adapter will do just fine all by itself. But if your appliance is not compatible with the local voltage, that's when a voltage transformer comes in. Voltage transformers actually change the local voltage to a voltage that's suitable for your appliance.
Wall outlets in most parts of the world outside of North America generally supply electricity at between 220 and 240 volts AC. If you're plugging in an appliance that was built for 220-240 volt electrical input, or an appliance that is compatible with multiple voltages, then an adapter is all you need.
But plug adapters do not change voltage, so the electricity coming through the adapter will still be the same 220-240 volts the wall outlet is supplying. North American wall outlets supply electricity at between 110 and 120 volts, far lower than in most of the rest of the world. Consequently, North American appliances are generally built for 110-120 volts. But that doesn't mean that your specific appliance isn't already compatible with the higher voltage -- it may very well be. In fact, most chargers for modern smartphones/iPhones, tablets/iPads, laptops and digital cameras are already multi-voltage compatible. Check your charger for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V" ... voila!
On the other hand, most "conventional appliances" like kitchen items, audio/video equipment, vacuum cleaners, lamps and lights, and most bath appliances are not compatible with multiple voltages, and need to have the voltage changed by way of a voltage transformer like this one. The only way to know for sure is to check the label, or the back of the manual, and determine the specific electrical input requirements for the specific device/appliance in question.
Is this transformer big enough to support my appliance?
The transformer you buy must be capable of supporting the amps and/or watts that your appliance needs in order to operate. If the transformer is too small, you will blow the fuse. The model VC750W supports 750 watts. So as long as your appliance is 750 watts or less, this transformer should be fine.
The watts and/or amps that your appliance requires can be found on a label on the appliance (usually on the bottom or back) where the brand name and model number appear. If the appliance uses a charger or AC adapter, the information will appear on the charger. Look for something like this: "Input: 120V 60Hz 100W " The "W" number is the watts. For this model transformer, that "W" number should be 750 or below.
Sometimes the label will show amps instead of watts. In that case the information would look something like: "Input: 120V 60Hz 10.0A " If the label lists amps, you can figure out a rough approximation of the watts by multiplying the amps by the volts (the "V" number). Example: 120 volts x 10.0 amps = 1200 watts. In this case, the VC750W would not be big enough to support the appliance. You would need to buy a transformer with a higher wattage capacity. PowerBright manufactures transformers that support up to 3000 watts!

PowerBright VC750W Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (750 Watt Capacity)
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PowerBright VC500W Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (500 Watt Capacity)
PowerBright VC500W Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (500 Watt Capacity)
0 Reviews
Save: 43% off
Availability : In stock
Unlike most other voltage transformers, PowerBright transformers can be used as either a step up transformer or a step down transformer. This means a PowerBright transformer will work for just about anybody, no matter what the origin and destination countries may be. (Exceptions are Japan (100V) and a handful of countries whose standard voltage is 127V.) Simply select the input voltage coming from the wall outlet via a jumper on the back of the unit, and plug your appliance into the outlet on the front of the unit which matches your appliance's required input voltage.
If you are bringing a U.S. or Canadian 110-120 volt appliance to a country where the voltage is 220-240 volts, you need a step down transformer. Step down transformers take the 220-240 volt electricity supplied in most countries, and convert the voltage down to 110-120 volts for use by the appliance. PowerBright transformers do that.
On the other hand, if you are bringing a 220-240 volt appliance from another country to the U.S. or Canada where the voltage is 110-120 volts, you need a step up transformer. Step up transformers take the 110-120 volt electricity supplied in the U.S. and Canada, and convert the voltage up to 220-240 volts for use by the appliance. The same PowerBright transformer will do that too.
But do I need a voltage transformer? Or would a plug adapter be enough?
Well, that depends on what you need to plug in. If your appliance's voltage matches the local voltage at your destination, then a plug adapter will do just fine all by itself. But if your appliance is not compatible with the local voltage, that's when a voltage transformer comes in. Voltage transformers actually change the local voltage to a voltage that's suitable for your appliance.
Wall outlets in most parts of the world outside of North America generally supply electricity at between 220 and 240 volts AC. If you're plugging in an appliance that was built for 220-240 volt electrical input, or an appliance that is compatible with multiple voltages, then an adapter is all you need.
But plug adapters do not change voltage, so the electricity coming through the adapter will still be the same 220-240 volts the wall outlet is supplying. North American wall outlets supply electricity at between 110 and 120 volts, far lower than in most of the rest of the world. Consequently, North American appliances are generally built for 110-120 volts. But that doesn't mean that your specific appliance isn't already compatible with the higher voltage -- it may very well be. In fact, most chargers for modern smartphones/iPhones, tablets/iPads, laptops and digital cameras are already multi-voltage compatible. Check your charger for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V" ... voila!
On the other hand, most "conventional appliances" like kitchen items, audio/video equipment, vacuum cleaners, lamps and lights, and most bath appliances are not compatible with multiple voltages, and need to have the voltage changed by way of a voltage transformer like this one. The only way to know for sure is to check the label, or the back of the manual, and determine the specific electrical input requirements for the specific device/appliance in question.
Is this transformer big enough to support my appliance?
The transformer you buy must be capable of supporting the amps and/or watts that your appliance needs in order to operate. If the transformer is too small, you will blow the fuse. The model VC500W supports 500 watts. So as long as your appliance is 500 watts or less, this transformer should be fine.
The watts and/or amps that your appliance requires can be found on a label on the appliance (usually on the bottom or back) where the brand name and model number appear. If the appliance uses a charger or AC adapter, the information will appear on the charger. Look for something like this: "Input: 120V 60Hz 100W " The "W" number is the watts. For this model transformer, that "W" number should be 500 or below.
Sometimes the label will show amps instead of watts. In that case the information would look something like: "Input: 120V 60Hz 10.0A " If the label lists amps, you can figure out a rough approximation of the watts by multiplying the amps by the volts (the "V" number). Example: 120 volts x 10.0 amps = 1200 watts. In this case, the VC500W would not be big enough to support the appliance. You would need to buy a transformer with a higher wattage capacity. PowerBright manufactures transformers that support up to 3000 watts!

PowerBright VC500W Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (500 Watt Capacity)
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PowerBright VC1000W Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (1000 Watt Capacity)
PowerBright VC1000W Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (1000 Watt Capacity)
0 Reviews
Save: 40% off
Availability : In stock
Unlike most other voltage transformers, PowerBright transformers can be used as either a step up transformer or a step down transformer. This means a PowerBright transformer will work for just about anybody, no matter what the origin and destination countries may be. (Exceptions are Japan (100V) and a handful of countries whose standard voltage is 127V.) Simply select the input voltage coming from the wall outlet via a jumper on the back of the unit, and plug your appliance into the outlet on the front of the unit which matches your appliance's required input voltage.
If you are bringing a U.S. or Canadian 110-120 volt appliance to a country where the voltage is 220-240 volts, you need a step down transformer. Step down transformers take the 220-240 volt electricity supplied in most countries, and convert the voltage down to 110-120 volts for use by the appliance. PowerBright transformers do that.
On the other hand, if you are bringing a 220-240 volt appliance from another country to the U.S. or Canada where the voltage is 110-120 volts, you need a step up transformer. Step up transformers take the 110-120 volt electricity supplied in the U.S. and Canada, and convert the voltage up to 220-240 volts for use by the appliance. The same PowerBright transformer will do that too.
But do I need a voltage transformer? Or would a plug adapter be enough?
Well, that depends on what you need to plug in. If your appliance's voltage matches the local voltage at your destination, then a plug adapter will do just fine all by itself. But if your appliance is not compatible with the local voltage, that's when a voltage transformer comes in. Voltage transformers actually change the local voltage to a voltage that's suitable for your appliance.
Wall outlets in most parts of the world outside of North America generally supply electricity at between 220 and 240 volts AC. If you're plugging in an appliance that was built for 220-240 volt electrical input, or an appliance that is compatible with multiple voltages, then an adapter is all you need.
But plug adapters do not change voltage, so the electricity coming through the adapter will still be the same 220-240 volts the wall outlet is supplying. North American wall outlets supply electricity at between 110 and 120 volts, far lower than in most of the rest of the world. Consequently, North American appliances are generally built for 110-120 volts. But that doesn't mean that your specific appliance isn't already compatible with the higher voltage -- it may very well be. In fact, most chargers for modern smartphones/iPhones, tablets/iPads, laptops and digital cameras are already multi-voltage compatible. Check your charger for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V" ... voila!
On the other hand, most "conventional appliances" like kitchen items, audio/video equipment, vacuum cleaners, lamps and lights, and most bath appliances are not compatible with multiple voltages, and need to have the voltage changed by way of a voltage transformer like this one. The only way to know for sure is to check the label, or the back of the manual, and determine the specific electrical input requirements for the specific device/appliance in question.
Is this transformer big enough to support my appliance?
The transformer you buy must be capable of supporting the amps and/or watts that your appliance needs in order to operate. If the transformer is too small, you will blow the fuse. The model VC1000W supports 1000 watts. So as long as your appliance is 1000 watts or less, this transformer should be fine.
The watts and/or amps that your appliance requires can be found on a label on the appliance (usually on the bottom or back) where the brand name and model number appear. If the appliance uses a charger or AC adapter, the information will appear on the charger. Look for something like this: "Input: 120V 60Hz 100W " The "W" number is the watts. For this model transformer, that "W" number should be 1000 or below.
Sometimes the label will show amps instead of watts. In that case the information would look something like: "Input: 120V 60Hz 10.0A " If the label lists amps, you can figure out a rough approximation of the watts by multiplying the amps by the volts (the "V" number). Example: 120 volts x 10.0 amps = 1200 watts. In this case, the VC1000W would not be big enough to support the appliance. You would need to buy a transformer with a higher wattage capacity. PowerBright manufactures transformers that support up to 3000 watts!

PowerBright VC1000W Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (1000 Watt Capacity)
Save: 40% off
PowerBright VC300W Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (300 Watt Capacity)
PowerBright VC300W Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (300 Watt Capacity)
0 Reviews
Save: 42% off
Availability : In stock
Unlike most other voltage transformers, PowerBright transformers can be used as either a step up transformer or a step down transformer. This means a PowerBright transformer will work for just about anybody, no matter what the origin and destination countries may be. (Exceptions are Japan (100V) and a handful of countries whose standard voltage is 127V.) Simply select the input voltage coming from the wall outlet via a jumper on the back of the unit, and plug your appliance into the outlet on the front of the unit which matches your appliance's required input voltage.
If you are bringing a U.S. or Canadian 110-120 volt appliance to a country where the voltage is 220-240 volts, you need a step down transformer. Step down transformers take the 220-240 volt electricity supplied in most countries, and convert the voltage down to 110-120 volts for use by the appliance. PowerBright transformers do that.
On the other hand, if you are bringing a 220-240 volt appliance from another country to the U.S. or Canada where the voltage is 110-120 volts, you need a step up transformer. Step up transformers take the 110-120 volt electricity supplied in the U.S. and Canada, and convert the voltage up to 220-240 volts for use by the appliance. The same PowerBright transformer will do that too.
But do I need a voltage transformer? Or would a plug adapter be enough?
Well, that depends on what you need to plug in. If your appliance's voltage matches the local voltage at your destination, then a plug adapter will do just fine all by itself. But if your appliance is not compatible with the local voltage, that's when a voltage transformer comes in. Voltage transformers actually change the local voltage to a voltage that's suitable for your appliance.
Wall outlets in most parts of the world outside of North America generally supply electricity at between 220 and 240 volts AC. If you're plugging in an appliance that was built for 220-240 volt electrical input, or an appliance that is compatible with multiple voltages, then an adapter is all you need.
But plug adapters do not change voltage, so the electricity coming through the adapter will still be the same 220-240 volts the wall outlet is supplying. North American wall outlets supply electricity at between 110 and 120 volts, far lower than in most of the rest of the world. Consequently, North American appliances are generally built for 110-120 volts. But that doesn't mean that your specific appliance isn't already compatible with the higher voltage -- it may very well be. In fact, most chargers for modern smartphones/iPhones, tablets/iPads, laptops and digital cameras are already multi-voltage compatible. Check your charger for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V" ... voila!
On the other hand, most "conventional appliances" like kitchen items, audio/video equipment, vacuum cleaners, lamps and lights, and most bath appliances are not compatible with multiple voltages, and need to have the voltage changed by way of a voltage transformer like this one. The only way to know for sure is to check the label, or the back of the manual, and determine the specific electrical input requirements for the specific device/appliance in question.
Is this transformer big enough to support my appliance?
The transformer you buy must be capable of supporting the amps and/or watts that your appliance needs in order to operate. If the transformer is too small, you will blow the fuse. The model VC300W supports 300 watts. So as long as your appliance is 300 watts or less, this transformer should be fine.
The watts and/or amps that your appliance requires can be found on a label on the appliance (usually on the bottom or back) where the brand name and model number appear. If the appliance uses a charger or AC adapter, the information will appear on the charger. Look for something like this: "Input: 120V 60Hz 100W " The "W" number is the watts. For this model transformer, that "W" number should be 300 or below.
Sometimes the label will show amps instead of watts. In that case the information would look something like: "Input: 120V 60Hz 10.0A " If the label lists amps, you can figure out a rough approximation of the watts by multiplying the amps by the volts (the "V" number). Example: 120 volts x 10.0 amps = 1200 watts. In this case, the VC300W would not be big enough to support the appliance. You would need to buy a transformer with a higher wattage capacity. PowerBright manufactures transformers that support up to 3000 watts!

PowerBright VC300W Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (300 Watt Capacity)
Save: 42% off
PowerBright VC750W Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (750 Watt Capacity)
PowerBright VC750W Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (750 Watt Capacity)
0 Reviews
Save: 38% off
Availability : In stock
Unlike most other voltage transformers, PowerBright transformers can be used as either a step up transformer or a step down transformer. This means a PowerBright transformer will work for just about anybody, no matter what the origin and destination countries may be. (Exceptions are Japan (100V) and a handful of countries whose standard voltage is 127V.) Simply select the input voltage coming from the wall outlet via a jumper on the back of the unit, and plug your appliance into the outlet on the front of the unit which matches your appliance's required input voltage.
If you are bringing a U.S. or Canadian 110-120 volt appliance to a country where the voltage is 220-240 volts, you need a step down transformer. Step down transformers take the 220-240 volt electricity supplied in most countries, and convert the voltage down to 110-120 volts for use by the appliance. PowerBright transformers do that.
On the other hand, if you are bringing a 220-240 volt appliance from another country to the U.S. or Canada where the voltage is 110-120 volts, you need a step up transformer. Step up transformers take the 110-120 volt electricity supplied in the U.S. and Canada, and convert the voltage up to 220-240 volts for use by the appliance. The same PowerBright transformer will do that too.
But do I need a voltage transformer? Or would a plug adapter be enough?
Well, that depends on what you need to plug in. If your appliance's voltage matches the local voltage at your destination, then a plug adapter will do just fine all by itself. But if your appliance is not compatible with the local voltage, that's when a voltage transformer comes in. Voltage transformers actually change the local voltage to a voltage that's suitable for your appliance.
Wall outlets in most parts of the world outside of North America generally supply electricity at between 220 and 240 volts AC. If you're plugging in an appliance that was built for 220-240 volt electrical input, or an appliance that is compatible with multiple voltages, then an adapter is all you need.
But plug adapters do not change voltage, so the electricity coming through the adapter will still be the same 220-240 volts the wall outlet is supplying. North American wall outlets supply electricity at between 110 and 120 volts, far lower than in most of the rest of the world. Consequently, North American appliances are generally built for 110-120 volts. But that doesn't mean that your specific appliance isn't already compatible with the higher voltage -- it may very well be. In fact, most chargers for modern smartphones/iPhones, tablets/iPads, laptops and digital cameras are already multi-voltage compatible. Check your charger for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V" ... voila!
On the other hand, most "conventional appliances" like kitchen items, audio/video equipment, vacuum cleaners, lamps and lights, and most bath appliances are not compatible with multiple voltages, and need to have the voltage changed by way of a voltage transformer like this one. The only way to know for sure is to check the label, or the back of the manual, and determine the specific electrical input requirements for the specific device/appliance in question.
Is this transformer big enough to support my appliance?
The transformer you buy must be capable of supporting the amps and/or watts that your appliance needs in order to operate. If the transformer is too small, you will blow the fuse. The model VC750W supports 750 watts. So as long as your appliance is 750 watts or less, this transformer should be fine.
The watts and/or amps that your appliance requires can be found on a label on the appliance (usually on the bottom or back) where the brand name and model number appear. If the appliance uses a charger or AC adapter, the information will appear on the charger. Look for something like this: "Input: 120V 60Hz 100W " The "W" number is the watts. For this model transformer, that "W" number should be 750 or below.
Sometimes the label will show amps instead of watts. In that case the information would look something like: "Input: 120V 60Hz 10.0A " If the label lists amps, you can figure out a rough approximation of the watts by multiplying the amps by the volts (the "V" number). Example: 120 volts x 10.0 amps = 1200 watts. In this case, the VC750W would not be big enough to support the appliance. You would need to buy a transformer with a higher wattage capacity. PowerBright manufactures transformers that support up to 3000 watts!

PowerBright VC750W Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (750 Watt Capacity)
Save: 38% off
PowerBright VC500W Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (500 Watt Capacity)
PowerBright VC500W Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (500 Watt Capacity)
0 Reviews
Save: 43% off
Availability : In stock
Unlike most other voltage transformers, PowerBright transformers can be used as either a step up transformer or a step down transformer. This means a PowerBright transformer will work for just about anybody, no matter what the origin and destination countries may be. (Exceptions are Japan (100V) and a handful of countries whose standard voltage is 127V.) Simply select the input voltage coming from the wall outlet via a jumper on the back of the unit, and plug your appliance into the outlet on the front of the unit which matches your appliance's required input voltage.
If you are bringing a U.S. or Canadian 110-120 volt appliance to a country where the voltage is 220-240 volts, you need a step down transformer. Step down transformers take the 220-240 volt electricity supplied in most countries, and convert the voltage down to 110-120 volts for use by the appliance. PowerBright transformers do that.
On the other hand, if you are bringing a 220-240 volt appliance from another country to the U.S. or Canada where the voltage is 110-120 volts, you need a step up transformer. Step up transformers take the 110-120 volt electricity supplied in the U.S. and Canada, and convert the voltage up to 220-240 volts for use by the appliance. The same PowerBright transformer will do that too.
But do I need a voltage transformer? Or would a plug adapter be enough?
Well, that depends on what you need to plug in. If your appliance's voltage matches the local voltage at your destination, then a plug adapter will do just fine all by itself. But if your appliance is not compatible with the local voltage, that's when a voltage transformer comes in. Voltage transformers actually change the local voltage to a voltage that's suitable for your appliance.
Wall outlets in most parts of the world outside of North America generally supply electricity at between 220 and 240 volts AC. If you're plugging in an appliance that was built for 220-240 volt electrical input, or an appliance that is compatible with multiple voltages, then an adapter is all you need.
But plug adapters do not change voltage, so the electricity coming through the adapter will still be the same 220-240 volts the wall outlet is supplying. North American wall outlets supply electricity at between 110 and 120 volts, far lower than in most of the rest of the world. Consequently, North American appliances are generally built for 110-120 volts. But that doesn't mean that your specific appliance isn't already compatible with the higher voltage -- it may very well be. In fact, most chargers for modern smartphones/iPhones, tablets/iPads, laptops and digital cameras are already multi-voltage compatible. Check your charger for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V" ... voila!
On the other hand, most "conventional appliances" like kitchen items, audio/video equipment, vacuum cleaners, lamps and lights, and most bath appliances are not compatible with multiple voltages, and need to have the voltage changed by way of a voltage transformer like this one. The only way to know for sure is to check the label, or the back of the manual, and determine the specific electrical input requirements for the specific device/appliance in question.
Is this transformer big enough to support my appliance?
The transformer you buy must be capable of supporting the amps and/or watts that your appliance needs in order to operate. If the transformer is too small, you will blow the fuse. The model VC500W supports 500 watts. So as long as your appliance is 500 watts or less, this transformer should be fine.
The watts and/or amps that your appliance requires can be found on a label on the appliance (usually on the bottom or back) where the brand name and model number appear. If the appliance uses a charger or AC adapter, the information will appear on the charger. Look for something like this: "Input: 120V 60Hz 100W " The "W" number is the watts. For this model transformer, that "W" number should be 500 or below.
Sometimes the label will show amps instead of watts. In that case the information would look something like: "Input: 120V 60Hz 10.0A " If the label lists amps, you can figure out a rough approximation of the watts by multiplying the amps by the volts (the "V" number). Example: 120 volts x 10.0 amps = 1200 watts. In this case, the VC500W would not be big enough to support the appliance. You would need to buy a transformer with a higher wattage capacity. PowerBright manufactures transformers that support up to 3000 watts!

PowerBright VC500W Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (500 Watt Capacity)
Save: 43% off
PowerBright VC1000W Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (1000 Watt Capacity)
PowerBright VC1000W Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (1000 Watt Capacity)
0 Reviews
Save: 40% off
Availability : In stock
Unlike most other voltage transformers, PowerBright transformers can be used as either a step up transformer or a step down transformer. This means a PowerBright transformer will work for just about anybody, no matter what the origin and destination countries may be. (Exceptions are Japan (100V) and a handful of countries whose standard voltage is 127V.) Simply select the input voltage coming from the wall outlet via a jumper on the back of the unit, and plug your appliance into the outlet on the front of the unit which matches your appliance's required input voltage.
If you are bringing a U.S. or Canadian 110-120 volt appliance to a country where the voltage is 220-240 volts, you need a step down transformer. Step down transformers take the 220-240 volt electricity supplied in most countries, and convert the voltage down to 110-120 volts for use by the appliance. PowerBright transformers do that.
On the other hand, if you are bringing a 220-240 volt appliance from another country to the U.S. or Canada where the voltage is 110-120 volts, you need a step up transformer. Step up transformers take the 110-120 volt electricity supplied in the U.S. and Canada, and convert the voltage up to 220-240 volts for use by the appliance. The same PowerBright transformer will do that too.
But do I need a voltage transformer? Or would a plug adapter be enough?
Well, that depends on what you need to plug in. If your appliance's voltage matches the local voltage at your destination, then a plug adapter will do just fine all by itself. But if your appliance is not compatible with the local voltage, that's when a voltage transformer comes in. Voltage transformers actually change the local voltage to a voltage that's suitable for your appliance.
Wall outlets in most parts of the world outside of North America generally supply electricity at between 220 and 240 volts AC. If you're plugging in an appliance that was built for 220-240 volt electrical input, or an appliance that is compatible with multiple voltages, then an adapter is all you need.
But plug adapters do not change voltage, so the electricity coming through the adapter will still be the same 220-240 volts the wall outlet is supplying. North American wall outlets supply electricity at between 110 and 120 volts, far lower than in most of the rest of the world. Consequently, North American appliances are generally built for 110-120 volts. But that doesn't mean that your specific appliance isn't already compatible with the higher voltage -- it may very well be. In fact, most chargers for modern smartphones/iPhones, tablets/iPads, laptops and digital cameras are already multi-voltage compatible. Check your charger for something to the effect of "Input: 100-240V" ... voila!
On the other hand, most "conventional appliances" like kitchen items, audio/video equipment, vacuum cleaners, lamps and lights, and most bath appliances are not compatible with multiple voltages, and need to have the voltage changed by way of a voltage transformer like this one. The only way to know for sure is to check the label, or the back of the manual, and determine the specific electrical input requirements for the specific device/appliance in question.
Is this transformer big enough to support my appliance?
The transformer you buy must be capable of supporting the amps and/or watts that your appliance needs in order to operate. If the transformer is too small, you will blow the fuse. The model VC1000W supports 1000 watts. So as long as your appliance is 1000 watts or less, this transformer should be fine.
The watts and/or amps that your appliance requires can be found on a label on the appliance (usually on the bottom or back) where the brand name and model number appear. If the appliance uses a charger or AC adapter, the information will appear on the charger. Look for something like this: "Input: 120V 60Hz 100W " The "W" number is the watts. For this model transformer, that "W" number should be 1000 or below.
Sometimes the label will show amps instead of watts. In that case the information would look something like: "Input: 120V 60Hz 10.0A " If the label lists amps, you can figure out a rough approximation of the watts by multiplying the amps by the volts (the "V" number). Example: 120 volts x 10.0 amps = 1200 watts. In this case, the VC1000W would not be big enough to support the appliance. You would need to buy a transformer with a higher wattage capacity. PowerBright manufactures transformers that support up to 3000 watts!

PowerBright VC1000W Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (1000 Watt Capacity)
Save: 40% off
PowerBright 0-AWG3 Professional Series Battery Cables (0 AWG, 3 ft.)
PowerBright 0-AWG3 Professional Series Battery Cables (0 AWG, 3 ft.)
0 Reviews
Save: 29% off
Availability : In stock
These high-quality OFHC cables are designed for use with PowerBright's DC to AC power inverters. They come in a variety of gauges and lengths for various installation scenarios and maximum power requirements. When connecting the inverter to the power source use the thickest wire available, in the shortest length practical. These cables are recommended for the following PowerBright inverter models: PW3500, PW6000, XTW3000, ML3500, ERP3500.
- Ring Type Connectors
- High Amperage
- Ultra Flexible
- OFHC Power Cable
- 105°C High Temperature / Chemical Resistant
- Non-Gripping Jacket

PowerBright 0-AWG3 Professional Series Battery Cables (0 AWG, 3 ft.)
Save: 29% off
PowerBright 2-AWG12 Professional Series Battery Cables (2 AWG, 12 ft.)
PowerBright 2-AWG12 Professional Series Battery Cables (2 AWG, 12 ft.)
0 Reviews
Save: 17% off
Availability : In stock
These high-quality OFHC cables are designed for use with PowerBright's DC to AC power inverters. They come in a variety of gauges and lengths for various installation scenarios and maximum power requirements. When connecting the inverter to the power source use the thickest wire available, in the shortest length practical. These cables are recommended for the following PowerBright inverter models: PW2300.
- Ring Type Connectors
- High Amperage
- Ultra Flexible
- OFHC Power Cable
- 105°C High Temperature / Chemical Resistant
- Non-Gripping Jacket

PowerBright 2-AWG12 Professional Series Battery Cables (2 AWG, 12 ft.)
Save: 17% off
PowerBright 2-AWG3 Professional Series Battery Cables (2 AWG, 3 ft.)
PowerBright 2-AWG3 Professional Series Battery Cables (2 AWG, 3 ft.)
0 Reviews
Save: 36% off
Availability : In stock
These high-quality OFHC cables are designed for use with PowerBright's DC to AC power inverters. They come in a variety of gauges and lengths for various installation scenarios and maximum power requirements. When connecting the inverter to the power source use the thickest wire available, in the shortest length practical. These cables are recommended for the following PowerBright inverter models: PW2300.
- Ring Type Connectors
- High Amperage
- Ultra Flexible
- OFHC Power Cable
- 105°C High Temperature / Chemical Resistant
- Non-Gripping Jacket

PowerBright 2-AWG3 Professional Series Battery Cables (2 AWG, 3 ft.)
Save: 36% off
PowerBright 2-AWG6 Professional Series Battery Cables (2 AWG, 6 ft.)
PowerBright 2-AWG6 Professional Series Battery Cables (2 AWG, 6 ft.)
0 Reviews
Save: 22% off
Availability : In stock
These high-quality OFHC cables are designed for use with PowerBright's DC to AC power inverters. They come in a variety of gauges and lengths for various installation scenarios and maximum power requirements. When connecting the inverter to the power source use the thickest wire available, in the shortest length practical. These cables are recommended for the following PowerBright inverter models: PW2300.
- Ring Type Connectors
- High Amperage
- Ultra Flexible
- OFHC Power Cable
- 105°C High Temperature / Chemical Resistant
- Non-Gripping Jacket

PowerBright 2-AWG6 Professional Series Battery Cables (2 AWG, 6 ft.)
Save: 22% off
PowerBright 0-AWG3 Professional Series Battery Cables (0 AWG, 3 ft.)
PowerBright 0-AWG3 Professional Series Battery Cables (0 AWG, 3 ft.)
0 Reviews
Save: 29% off
Availability : In stock
These high-quality OFHC cables are designed for use with PowerBright's DC to AC power inverters. They come in a variety of gauges and lengths for various installation scenarios and maximum power requirements. When connecting the inverter to the power source use the thickest wire available, in the shortest length practical. These cables are recommended for the following PowerBright inverter models: PW3500, PW6000, XTW3000, ML3500, ERP3500.
- Ring Type Connectors
- High Amperage
- Ultra Flexible
- OFHC Power Cable
- 105°C High Temperature / Chemical Resistant
- Non-Gripping Jacket

PowerBright 0-AWG3 Professional Series Battery Cables (0 AWG, 3 ft.)
Save: 29% off
PowerBright 2-AWG12 Professional Series Battery Cables (2 AWG, 12 ft.)
PowerBright 2-AWG12 Professional Series Battery Cables (2 AWG, 12 ft.)
0 Reviews
Save: 17% off
Availability : In stock
These high-quality OFHC cables are designed for use with PowerBright's DC to AC power inverters. They come in a variety of gauges and lengths for various installation scenarios and maximum power requirements. When connecting the inverter to the power source use the thickest wire available, in the shortest length practical. These cables are recommended for the following PowerBright inverter models: PW2300.
- Ring Type Connectors
- High Amperage
- Ultra Flexible
- OFHC Power Cable
- 105°C High Temperature / Chemical Resistant
- Non-Gripping Jacket

PowerBright 2-AWG12 Professional Series Battery Cables (2 AWG, 12 ft.)
Save: 17% off
PowerBright 2-AWG3 Professional Series Battery Cables (2 AWG, 3 ft.)
PowerBright 2-AWG3 Professional Series Battery Cables (2 AWG, 3 ft.)
0 Reviews
Save: 36% off
Availability : In stock
These high-quality OFHC cables are designed for use with PowerBright's DC to AC power inverters. They come in a variety of gauges and lengths for various installation scenarios and maximum power requirements. When connecting the inverter to the power source use the thickest wire available, in the shortest length practical. These cables are recommended for the following PowerBright inverter models: PW2300.
- Ring Type Connectors
- High Amperage
- Ultra Flexible
- OFHC Power Cable
- 105°C High Temperature / Chemical Resistant
- Non-Gripping Jacket

PowerBright 2-AWG3 Professional Series Battery Cables (2 AWG, 3 ft.)
Save: 36% off
PowerBright 2-AWG6 Professional Series Battery Cables (2 AWG, 6 ft.)
PowerBright 2-AWG6 Professional Series Battery Cables (2 AWG, 6 ft.)
0 Reviews
Save: 22% off
Availability : In stock
These high-quality OFHC cables are designed for use with PowerBright's DC to AC power inverters. They come in a variety of gauges and lengths for various installation scenarios and maximum power requirements. When connecting the inverter to the power source use the thickest wire available, in the shortest length practical. These cables are recommended for the following PowerBright inverter models: PW2300.
- Ring Type Connectors
- High Amperage
- Ultra Flexible
- OFHC Power Cable
- 105°C High Temperature / Chemical Resistant
- Non-Gripping Jacket

PowerBright 2-AWG6 Professional Series Battery Cables (2 AWG, 6 ft.)
Save: 22% off
EA9 Type E/F Travel Plug Adapter for Europe (CEE 7/7 Schuko)
This plug adapter changes the shape of an appliance's plug so that it can plug into a Type F (German Style CEE 7/4) European Schuko wall outlet, or a Type E (French Style CEE 7/5) European Schuko wall outlet.
The receptacle side of the adapter can accept any standard household plug type from any country, except the Type M (South African SABS 1661) plug.
The plug side is a CEE 7/7 hybrid Schuko plug, which is compatible with both the German and French variations of the Schuko wall outlet. Its pins are 4.8mm in diameter, 19mm long and spaced 19mm apart. The plug has both side grounding clips and a receptacle for the male grounding pin found in French Schuko sockets.
Our EA Series plug adapters have recently been completely re-engineered from the inside out. It's the first significant advancement in plug adapter technology in 25 years! The redesigned internal structure makes these plug adapters the only ones on the market that meet IEC 60884-2-5 Amperage Rating / Temperature Rise standards.
Don't know what that means? We'll explain why it's incredibly important. But in the meantime, here's the short answer: It's
Save: 20% off
Specials
PowerBright VC100W Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (100 Watt Capacity)
Save: 33% off
EA16 Type I Travel Plug Adapter for Australia, China (AS 3112 / CPCS-CCC)
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FEATURED
Energizer EN180 Cup Style 12V DC to 120V AC Power Inverter (180 Watt Capacity)
Save: 29% off
Krieger ULT600 Professional Grade Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Transformer (600 Watt Capacity)
Save: 27% off
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